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A used car checklist you'll actually use
Most checklists are ninety items of padding. These are the checks that actually stop people buying the wrong car.
Everything we know about checking, buying and running a used car, written down. No jargon, no scare tactics: just what to look for and why it matters.
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Most checklists are ninety items of padding. These are the checks that actually stop people buying the wrong car.
Reading the MOT record, the logbook and the plate, and spotting clocking, cloning and hidden write-offs.
The test record is free to look up and most buyers never read past the pass/fail line. The interesting part is everything underneath it.
The free DVLA data won't tell you: write-off status lives on an insurance register most buyers have never heard of.
A £100 gadget can take 60,000 miles off a digital dash in minutes. The paper trail is much harder to wind back.
On HP and PCP the debt follows the car, not the seller. Buy one that still has finance owing and the lender can repossess it from your driveway.
If you buy a stolen car, the police return it to the real owner and you're left chasing a seller who has vanished. Prevention is everything.
Most bad cars die on the free checks. The paid ones exist for three flags nothing public will show you, and here is when to use each tier.
No official database holds service records. Here's where they actually live, how to read them properly, and how to prove a stack of stamps is real.
Printed on the front of every V5C: "this document is not proof of ownership". Most buyers never read that line.
Cloning copies an innocent car's plate onto a dodgy one, so the paperwork looks perfect while the metal tells a different story. Here's how to tell.
A write-off marker isn't automatically a death sentence; sometimes it's a cracked bumper on a slow news day for the insurer.
A reg plate quietly tells you where a car was registered and roughly when. Here's how to decode all five formats still on the road.
An import can be the same car for less money, or a spec you can't insure with a history that stops at the border. Knowing which is which is the whole game.
A write-off isn't about whether a car can be fixed; almost anything can. It's about whether the sums add up for the insurer, which is a very different question.
Cat A means crush the whole car; Cat B means crush the shell. Neither should ever be driven again. So why do they occasionally turn up for sale?
The repair is free however old the car, but the recall letter goes to the registered keeper, and that isn't you yet. Thirty seconds on gov.uk closes the gap.
Where to buy, what to check at the viewing and what your rights are once you have paid.
Most checklists are ninety items of padding. These are the checks that actually stop people buying the wrong car.
Buy a dud from a dealer and the law has your back. Buy the same dud privately and you're largely on your own. The seller matters as much as the car.
Forget the 100,000-mile death sentence; it's decades out of date. Multiply age by 7,000, then worry about whether the miles are genuine.
On a used EV the battery is the engine, the gearbox and half the price all at once. Judge the car on that and the rest gets simpler.
At auction the hammer is the contract: no test drive, usually no warranty, no returns. The winning is the easy part; the homework is what saves you.
Not all warranties are the same animal. One is a manufacturer standing behind the car; the other is an insurance policy with a claims department hoping you won't read the exclusions.
Plate-change gluts and quarter-end targets are real; most "best month" advice isn't. When prices genuinely soften, and why the right car still beats the right month.
An ex-fleet car had one driver; an ex-rental had hundreds, yet both show one keeper on the logbook. Telling them apart is the whole game.
A well-modified car can be a bargain; a badly modified one is somebody else's expensive mistake. Telling them apart is mostly about who did the work.
Car tax, insurance groups, finance agreements and what a car really costs to run.
Three different tax systems are running at once, and which one applies depends entirely on when the car was first registered.
The seller's tax is refunded the day they sell, which means the car is untaxed from the second you own it. Here's how to fix that before you drive off.
Two cars the same price can be a world apart on insurance. The group number is the clue most buyers ignore until the quote lands.
The cheapest car to run isn't always the obvious one; it depends on your mileage, where you charge, and how long you keep it. Here's how to work out your own answer.
A good clip can turn a your-word-against-theirs claim into an open and shut one. A badly set-up camera just records the sky and the time wrong.
A legal right on regulated HP and PCP agreements, and the lender cannot refuse it. The catch is working out where halfway actually falls.
Yes, since April 2025. The bigger surprise is the supplement, which a fairly ordinary family EV can trigger while its petrol twin does not.
PCP looks £100 a month cheaper than HP on the same car, until the balloon lands. The honest arithmetic behind the three ways to pay.
Euro 6 diesel, Euro 4 petrol: these little labels decide whether a car drives free through a clean-air zone or pays every day. Here's what they actually mean.
Keeping a car on the road, taking it off, moving a private plate and selling it when the time comes.
A SORN never expires, the car can't sit at the kerb outside your house, and there's one journey it still allows. What the rules really say, and what a gap means when you buy.
There's no form to cancel it and no call to make. What catches people out is the order: insurance, then the MOT, then the payment, with a wait in between.
The convenient option and the profitable option are rarely the same one. The gap between a part-ex figure and a private sale is where the decision lives.
Moving a personal plate isn't hard, but one missed step (an expired retention, a car that's not taxed) and you're stuck. Here's the order to do it in.
A private sale can be hundreds more than a trade-in, provided you don't get stung by a bounced payment or a "buyer" who never intended to pay. Here's how to stay safe.